Rocket Salad, Sarnies, & Meringues With Berries
Mrs. Portia Berry-Kilby
I fondly remember an afternoon spent in the dappled shade of my grandmother’s garden, playing a game of cricket with my extended family, which, if happy hindsight has not altered my memory, would have lasted all evening had it not been interrupted by crustless cucumber sandwiches served on a doily-adorned tray.
Unlike the stereotypical family matriarch, my grandmother isn’t the best cook. But what she does, she does well. She is the master chef of alfresco afternoon teas, keeping the components simple, light, and refreshing. Cucumber sandwiches and salad, followed by meringues and berries, all washed down with lemonade — these were the flavors of my childhood summers.
Meringues, berries, and cucumber “sarnies” are all quite delightful and worthy of replication. A cucumber sandwich may suffer mockery from those west of the Atlantic Ocean, but such derision would be unfair. “Don’t knock it till you’ve tried it”, goes the old adage — and it applies especially to cucumber sandwiches. Meringues might also lack lavish ingredients and strike some readers as dry or bland, but nothing could be further from the truth. Those who harbor such prejudice need to cleanse their palates —with meringues I might suggest — until the ethereal sweetness of whisked egg whites and sugar satisfies the sweet tooth and shop-bought cookies seem sickly by comparison. Any summer afternoon can be elevated by cucumber sarnies and meringues.
But it was my grandmother’s bowl of salad that left guests remarking on how effectively the ingredients complemented one another. It is perhaps no wonder, then, that this feta and rocket (arugula) salad features in the background of many a happy summer memory — this recipe was, and still is, her warm weather go-to.
I like this salad for many reasons. First and foremost, there’s the association of home and lazy, hazy afternoons. But one does not need a dose of nostalgia to appreciate this dish. It boasts no frills or fancy ingredients — just fresh, summery flavors that speak for themselves. Too often, salad dressings are either cloying or contain more ingredients than the salad itself. A simple squeeze of lemon juice, however, evades both critiques. It may sound overly simple — perhaps, even, a cop-out — but when paired with the right main ingredients lemon juice works beyond compare.
So, reach for your finest salad bowl and serving plates, and invite some friends into the garden while the weather stays on side. This spread will not disappoint.
— Portia
Serves 4-6
Rocket Salad
7-8 ounces (200g) rocket (a.k.a. arugula for state-side readers)
7-8 ounces (200g) Feta cheese
A cupful of peas
A large bunch of grapes
1/2 English cucumber
Juice of one lemon
Use fresh peas if you have them (boiled for 60 seconds if you like), or pour boiling water over frozen peas to defrost them, and then drain.
Cube the feta.
Cut the cucumber into quarters lengthways and slice very thinly.
Slice the grapes in half lengthways (this may sound fiddly but it adds a delicacy and charm to the salad, I assure you).
Put the rocket in a large, pretty bowl. (A cut-glass bowl would gain my grandmother’s approval, but any bowl, as long as it’s pretty, will suffice.)
Layer the other ingredients on top, pouring the lemon juice over them. Toss lightly and serve.
Best enjoyed outside, with cool lemonade and cucumber sandwiches (with their crusts cut off!) — speaking of which . . .
Cucumber Sarnies
I am aware that (especially for the American reader) one might wonder why I do not list cream cheese in the ingredients below. Might cucumber and butter be a tad bland, I hear you ask? With a bit of seasoning, it certainly is not. If you wish to swap butter for cream cheese, by all means do. But I don’t think I have ever had a cream cheese and cucumber sandwich where the cucumber has managed to outshine the cream cheese . . . it simply doesn’t happen. Cucumbers can be full of flavor — they just need chance to prove themselves.
1/2 English cucumber, cut into thin rounds
8 slices of bread (white or brown, as you prefer)
Real butter
Black pepper
Spread butter on the bread, and place rounds of cucumber on top of half the buttered slices. Grind a little black pepper on top of the cucumber and sandwich it with the other slices of bread. Cut the crusts off and slice each sandwich into four triangles. Serve the triangles upright on a plate.
And for the delicate but triumphant conclusion . . .
Meringues With Berries
4 large egg whites (Do not let any yolk creep into this mixture. The cook is advised to separate the eggs one by one into a small bowl before adding to the main bowl, to prevent a yolk disaster.)
Pinch of salt
1 cup + 2 tablespoons (225g) caster sugar (Do not cheat on this by substituting other sugar! Caster — also called super-fine — sugar is more finely-ground than regular granulated sugar, but does not contain cornstarch like powdered/confectioners’ sugar.)
Handfuls of whichever berries are in season
A dusting of powdered sugar
Preheat the oven to 225 degrees Fahrenheit or gas mark one quarter.
Place the egg whites into a large (scrupulously clean) bowl with a pinch of salt.
Using an electric whisk, whisk the eggs until the whites are thick and stand in stiff peaks. Do not expect such a transformation to happen quickly!
Add half of the sugar, a tablespoonful at a time, whisking for a couple of seconds in between each addition.
Fold in half of the remaining sugar, using a cold metal spoon. Then, fold in the final amount of sugar.
Gently spoon onto a parchment-lined baking tray. Depending on the size of your dollops, this recipe should yield between 12 and 24 meringues, and leftover meringues will happily rest in an airtight container for several weeks (if you can resist such temptation for so long).
Place on the lowest rack of the oven and cook for 90 minutes. After 90 minutes, turn off the oven and open the oven door. Allow the meringues to cool on the tray inside of the oven.
Serve each meringue with mixed berries and a dusting of powdered sugar. A dollop of whipped cream would not go amiss for the extra indulgent.